Most people love stuffed animals, but sometimes too many can gather on your bed and you have no room to sleep. Here is a moderately easy tutorial to make a stuffed animal bed, so that they may hog their own bed and not yours.

What you need

Preparing and Setting up to Make the Stuffed Animal Bed

Before you go any further, make sure you have a fresh pack of hot glue sticks. This craft will take a LOT of hot glue, at least five to ten sticks if not even more. Start heating up the hot glue gun on a safe surface with parental supervision, and make sure to unplug it after you are done crafting. After the hot glue gun has been set up, measure the plush you are making a bed for. The bed should be at least three inches longer than the plush. This allows room for pillows and blankets. Width wise, the bed will be the length of the popsicle sticks.

Glue the Frame of the Stuffed Animal Bed

Glue a bunch of popsicle sticks together like slats until you reach the length required for your stuffed animal. Attach some slats for increased stability on the bottom, so that it will not break like a toothpick under the weight of the plush and its pillows. You may wish to trim the rounded edge off of the popsicle stick to make it more smooth. Go around the edges gluing popsicle sticks on their sides, to make a little sort of crate with really short sides. Glue the legs to the side of the little crate, and add the shelf pieces to the ends of the bed to make a sort of bedframe.


Making the Stuffed Animal Bed Soft and Warm

Put down some hot glue and glue an even amount of stuffing or foam to the inside of the bed. Cut a piece of fabric roughly an inch longer on all sides out and glue it to the sides of the bed, to form a mattress. Wait for it to harden, and then add little pillows and a blanket as you wish to make your plushie friends as cozy as possible.

Foxes are adorable, with their fluffy tails and pointy ears. This is the process of how to draw a fox worthy of adding to your doodle book.

What you need

Step 1: Draw a Fox Tail and Face

The tail of the fox drawn started with a stretched out “S” shape, curving up and out from the body of the fox. The connecting line of the fox tail should have the tail widest in the middle and narrowing at either end. Foxes often have white tipped tails, so draw a zig zag line about half an inch from the tip so that you remember to leave that part white. About an inch from the tail to the left, draw the head of the fox. The nose has a rounded point, and the fox head is triangle shaped. Draw two pointy ears on the top of the head. Make the other ear slightly shorter, and the line for the top of the head should pass that ear line and stop at the ear facing you. Then add a few tufts of fur to the ear.

Feet and Body

The back of your fox connects the head to tail, and goes from about the chin, swoops down a little, and swoops back up to meet the tail of the fox. The spine may take a few tries to get right, but do not give up. Then after the back spine is drawn, draw the rear and hind leg, which curves out slightly and ends at a little stubby nubby paw about an inch down. Draw a little zigzag line on the leg like the tail, and leave that part white. The front of the fox is fluffy, so using that same furry zigzag pattern, draw the fox belly of the fox. The front paw is a straight line with a nubby nub paw at the end which is white like the back paw. Draw the big black eye on, so the fox looks very concerned at having a tail.

Details and Coloring

Color the the body with a light peach color, except for the areas marked off with zigzags and the nose.  Color over the peach color with a darker orange, making it especially darker by the belly fur and the underside of the tail. And now that it is finished , this lovable fox drawing is ready to brighten someone’s day.

Dragons are fairly easy to draw. This dragon doodle tutorial will show you how to doodle a dragon curled around a tower.

What you need:

Draw Your Dragon’s Base lines

Start by using your ruler to help you make two straight lines that are vertical on the paper. Draw the curve of the dragon by drawing a slithery shape over the castle, making sure the top part is sticking out off of the castle. Make two lines on top that are parallel on the castle with little boxes. Add the two triangles leading down to the lines to make it a smoother transition. Draw lightly so that any erasing done is completely gone from the page.

Draw the Castle for your Dragon Doodle

The window is a dome shape with very little blocks around it. You can also use circles instead of blocks. The base of the castle has rocks that help hold it steadily in place. Stained glass can be drawn in the window to make it look more magical. Erase about a half an inch around where the line where the dragon spine is on top of the castle, so the dragon has room to be fat and dragon-like. Remember the dragon is curling around the tower, so every other line should be behind the castle, or erased completely.

 Draw the Dragon

The dragon is fat and lazy and as long as you bring it a burger, you may pass. Really emphasize this point by making him look like a fat anaconda that don’t want none. His face should resemble that of an angry turtle with a forked tongue and a dental problem. Make sure the lines are even and when it curves around the castle tower, the line also curves as a snake would curl around a branch. Both front paws should be hanging onto the top of the tower and the other foot should just be dangling in the air. The back fin should just be like a cheap twisted up ribbon krazy glued onto the back of the beast.

Finish Your Dragon Doodle

You may color him in or leave him blank. If you would like to add scales, simply draw little dome shapes all over his body and fill them in with color. You could also add wings that curve around the castle in a hog, because he is fat and scared to fall off.

Air plants are quite fascinating, how they can grow without any soil or roots. Because of this, the options for air plant holders are much more different than those for plants with dirt. For instance, you can make a very strange air plant holder out of… plastic shot glasses?

What you will need

Gathering and Starting your Air Plant Holder

Start by getting three shot glasses of matching colors and turning them upside down. Set a shot glass of a different color aside, and the other three shotglasses that match the first three. Plug in your hot glue gun or have an adult plug it in and set it aside on a table or other surface that will not melt or catch fire. Be careful not to bump the cord, as hot glue guns are lightweight. Make sure to have at least three glue sticks on hand, ready to use.

Gluing All the Things Together on your Air Plant Holder

Arrange the three shot glasses in a triangle. Glue the base of two of them together with a small dab of hot glue. Glue the other one at two points on the bottom to the other two shot glasses, reforming the triangle. Remember not to use too much hot glue or your air plant holder will not look as good. Hot glue will remelt if you use the tip of the gun to heat it, and will allow you to remove any excess. Be careful not to melt the plastic shot glasses. Glue the three outer shot glasses to make It look like a set of bowling pins. Put a shot glass on each side of the triangle to ensure stability.

Finishing Touches on your Air Plant Holder Plus Proper Air Plant Care Information

Glue the base shot glass upside down to the triangle once uprighted to finish off the holder. Add at least one or two air plants in the center to weight it down, or hot glue a few glass beads to the inside of the middle shot glasses to keep it weighted down. Once a week to care for your air plants, take them out and soak them in a bath of water for about half an hour. Once a month, soak your air plants for one to two hours. Trim any dead ends or leaves that are leeching from the plant. A properly cared for air plant will last for up to five years. Good luck and happy crafting!

You can turn your old Littlest Pet Shop toys into creepy, scary ghosts with just a bit of paint and acetone. This is a great craft for bored children and teens alike.

What you will need:

Remove the Paint to Prepare the LPS Custom

Start by pouring about half an inch of acetone into a small glass bowl. If you would like to remove all of the paint, dip the LPS in the acetone and wipe it off with a Q-tip. For just the facial features, dip the Q-tip into the acetone and gently rub away the eyes, being careful not to smudge the paint. Go in circular motions on the eyes to prevent this from happening, as there is no way to remove it if you smudge it on.

 Base Coat the LPS

Next coat the entire body in a coat of white acrylic paint. Two coats of white paint is needed to ensure that any left over base colors are covered. Use a fine tip brush to go around any details you wish to leave their original colors. Allow to fully dry for about an hour before moving on.

Mix and Prepare your Paint

Because this particular LPS had a dark pink bow, I mixed some red and white paint to make a very light pastel pink for a more ghostly appearance. You may do this with any accessories on the LPS that you wish to keep the same color but also have a creepy touch. Put a little black paint and white paint on a paper plate as a palette.

Paint the LPS Customs

Using the white paint first, cover any fur or fluff on your LPS customs with one more coat. Wash your brush thoroughly and paint the face, ears, and paws, hooves, or fins black if they are not covered in fur. If your character has furry feet, paint the bottom of the foot black on the paw print. When painting the face, be cautious to avoid painting the eyes, however paint as close to them as you dare with a fine tip brush. Add one more coat of paint to the eyes to make them look creepy and hollow. Paint the inside of the ear white as well, instead of pink.

Finish Your LPS Ghost

After your LPS customs character has dried, you may put a clear coat of nail polish on it or leave it as is for a matte look.