Foxes are adorable, with their fluffy tails and pointy ears. This is the process of how to draw a fox worthy of adding to your doodle book.

What you need

Step 1: Draw a Fox Tail and Face

The tail of the fox drawn started with a stretched out “S” shape, curving up and out from the body of the fox. The connecting line of the fox tail should have the tail widest in the middle and narrowing at either end. Foxes often have white tipped tails, so draw a zig zag line about half an inch from the tip so that you remember to leave that part white. About an inch from the tail to the left, draw the head of the fox. The nose has a rounded point, and the fox head is triangle shaped. Draw two pointy ears on the top of the head. Make the other ear slightly shorter, and the line for the top of the head should pass that ear line and stop at the ear facing you. Then add a few tufts of fur to the ear.

Feet and Body

The back of your fox connects the head to tail, and goes from about the chin, swoops down a little, and swoops back up to meet the tail of the fox. The spine may take a few tries to get right, but do not give up. Then after the back spine is drawn, draw the rear and hind leg, which curves out slightly and ends at a little stubby nubby paw about an inch down. Draw a little zigzag line on the leg like the tail, and leave that part white. The front of the fox is fluffy, so using that same furry zigzag pattern, draw the fox belly of the fox. The front paw is a straight line with a nubby nub paw at the end which is white like the back paw. Draw the big black eye on, so the fox looks very concerned at having a tail.

Details and Coloring

Color the the body with a light peach color, except for the areas marked off with zigzags and the nose.  Color over the peach color with a darker orange, making it especially darker by the belly fur and the underside of the tail. And now that it is finished , this lovable fox drawing is ready to brighten someone’s day.

Air plants are quite fascinating, how they can grow without any soil or roots. Because of this, the options for air plant holders are much more different than those for plants with dirt. For instance, you can make a very strange air plant holder out of… plastic shot glasses?

What you will need

Gathering and Starting your Air Plant Holder

Start by getting three shot glasses of matching colors and turning them upside down. Set a shot glass of a different color aside, and the other three shotglasses that match the first three. Plug in your hot glue gun or have an adult plug it in and set it aside on a table or other surface that will not melt or catch fire. Be careful not to bump the cord, as hot glue guns are lightweight. Make sure to have at least three glue sticks on hand, ready to use.

Gluing All the Things Together on your Air Plant Holder

Arrange the three shot glasses in a triangle. Glue the base of two of them together with a small dab of hot glue. Glue the other one at two points on the bottom to the other two shot glasses, reforming the triangle. Remember not to use too much hot glue or your air plant holder will not look as good. Hot glue will remelt if you use the tip of the gun to heat it, and will allow you to remove any excess. Be careful not to melt the plastic shot glasses. Glue the three outer shot glasses to make It look like a set of bowling pins. Put a shot glass on each side of the triangle to ensure stability.

Finishing Touches on your Air Plant Holder Plus Proper Air Plant Care Information

Glue the base shot glass upside down to the triangle once uprighted to finish off the holder. Add at least one or two air plants in the center to weight it down, or hot glue a few glass beads to the inside of the middle shot glasses to keep it weighted down. Once a week to care for your air plants, take them out and soak them in a bath of water for about half an hour. Once a month, soak your air plants for one to two hours. Trim any dead ends or leaves that are leeching from the plant. A properly cared for air plant will last for up to five years. Good luck and happy crafting!

Have you ever wanted to wear a lollipop, but it was just too sticky? Then let this simple and easy tutorial guide you through how to make your own sugar free and totally wearable polymer clay lollipop.

What you will need

Step 1:Collecting your Different Colors

Start by rolling out small balls of each color, about a third inch round each. Separate the white and translucent first, as they will be stained by the other colors if you mold them with your hands while having other colors on them. Start with translucent, then sparkly white, light blue, silver, teal, red, and then finally bronze for the best effect.

Step 2:Making the Lollipop

After the balls of clay are rolled out and kneaded, roll them all individually on a flat surface to about 6 inches long. Twist them together gently and roll them all together, twisting it up as much as you would like as you roll it thinner, to about a foot in length. Then roll it up in a circle and tuck the end of the twist on the side so that it leaves a slight indent in the clay for the popsicle stick.

Step 3:Adding the Stick to the Polymer Clay Lollipop and Final Touches

Roll the plain white to about a third inch thickness and cut the end flat. Attach the stick to the base of the lollipop and sort of squish them together to make them fuse. Cut out a piece of wire that is slightly longer than the lollipop from the bottom of the stick all the way to the top of the lollipop. Twist the wire with a loop on the end and make sure it will fit. Use a skewer to poke a hole almost through and bake it at 275F for 15 minutes. After it comes out of the oven, superglue the metal piece into the lollipop securely and let it cure, then you are technically done. However, it will look much better if you leave the stick matte but drip clear nail polish or glaze on the candy part of the lollipop.

Five Nights at Freddy’s is a wonderful series of games by Scott Cawthon that are full of many interesting Easter eggs and funny moments, such as the selection of Exotic Butters. You can make your own Exotic Butters with polymer clay and a little imagination.

This tutorial requires a lot of different polymer clay colors, so I recommend buying a kit.

What you need:

Making the Basket for your Exotic Butters

Start off by mixing white, yellow, and brown to make the right color for the basket, which is a sort of tan color. Roll it out very thin and make the base of the basket. Make the base very wide and the walls of the basket short, so that it matches the real exotic butter basket. Mixing white and shiny white polymer clay, make the inside of the basket. Roll it out, cut a small circle in the middle, and put it against the bottom of the basket, pressing it in with the blunt end of a toothpick. Take the rest of the clay, roll it out, and line the rest of the inside of the basket. Blend the edges and fold the excess slightly over the side of the basket.

Adding Details to your Exotic Butter FNAF Basket

After the basket is lined, use a mix of light and dark red clay to make the ribbon and bow. The ribbon was a small piece rolled out thin and wrapped around the basket securely. The bow was two triangles with a dot of red in the middle to cover up where the pieces met. Make two lines on each half of the bow and stick it on. Pull the edges out slightly so it looks more 3D.

Making the Exotic Butters

The exotic butters are made from white shimmer polymer clay, light yellow polymer clay, and dark yellow polymer clay. Mix the colors to get the desired shade of yellow. Roll them out on the parchment with a small roller very carefully. Cut the rounded edges off and flatten them to look  just like real butter. 6 pieces of butter is how many is in the original basket, however I used extra sticks to fill in gaps. Put an eye hook or a piece of wire twisted into a loop into the back of it and tuck it in snugly. Bake at 375 and put a clear coat of nail polish over the butter for an even more realistic touch.

This adorable sculpey polymer clay charm is easy to make and sure to look fabulous on your bookbag, around your neck, or maybe even on your friend.

What you need

Roll out some Sculpey Polymer Clay

Start by cutting a two pieces of parchment that are a fairly decent size to roll your clay out between. You should need about a foot of parchment. Roll out a golf ball size amount of Sculpey. Place your sculpey between the two parchment pieces. Roll it out with your rolling pin until it is about ¼ inch thick. Make sure you are rolling on a stable, flat surface to ensure your sculpey is the proper thickness.

Cookie cutting time

  

Use your cookie cutter to cut out two heart shapes from the clay. I used my finger to smooth the edges a bit for a cleaner appearance on the sides that will be facing out. You can always make little sprinkles and put them on the cookie halves. Just roll out clay thinly and cut it into little pieces. I poked the top heart with a toothpick to give it the texture on the edges.

Cutting your Wire to Make your Creation a Polymer Clay Charm

To make my little cookie a charm, I cut about an inch of wire off the roll and twisted it carefully. I held the spiked ends of the wire in the pliers and twisted it three or four times. I also bent the two ends out like an anchor, so it will not slip out of the clay once in.

Roll out your Icing for Your Sculpey Cookie

Just like you would with the sprinkles, roll out a piece of sculpey. However you will want to roll out your sculpey to about 1/8 thickness. After you have a long piece rolled out, double it up and see if you have enough to go all the way around the cookie with plenty of slack.

Twist it and wrap it around the edge of the bottom cookie. Start at the middle and wind out, and curl up the rest of the clay into the center. Press your wire piece into the middle of the heart into the extra icing and cover the base of the wire with the clay so it stays secure. Press your top cookie gently on top. Bake at 275 Fahrenheit for about half an hour.

Painting your Polymer Clay Cookie

After your sculpey polymer clay friend has cooled completely, you can finally paint it. I used nail polish for durability, because I am making it into a necklace. I recommend you use a fine brush with a fine nail polish brush which you can get here for the icing. Paint the icing first, it will be the hardest to paint. Make sure to get in all the gaps and allow it to fully dry. After the icing is dry, I painted the top and bottom cookies pink. I used a toothpick to make sure there is no polish in the holes on the front cookie. Once your two halves are dry, you can choose to add a face with sharpies, otherwise you are done. This sharpie set that you can obtain here should be enough for all your sharpie needs.